Vinspiration

The Western Cape – A Journey Through Time

lior — Wed, 03 Jan 2024 14:56:52 +0000

To visit the winelands of the Western Cape is to travel through time, to experience a wine and culinary culture
that spans over 365 years, to appreciate how the Old World of winemaking became the New World, and then
found an exciting fusion that spans continents and generations.

I was born in South Africa, and still have many fond memories of the people, the culture, the wildlife and of course, the winelands. One of my last experiences before moving abroad as a young man over forty years ago
was to tour Stellenbosch and Franschhoek.

As a wine photographer, I have been fortunate enough to visit the winelands four times in the past few years.
I’ve stayed over a month each time, meeting the people behind the modern wine industry, learning about the
ancient geology, which makes this terroir so complex and unique, and discovering a world of wine and culinary expertise on par with the best European traditions.

I began my renewed South African wine journey in Cape Town, the Mother City, which was founded in 1652 as
a supply station for Dutch trading ships sailing to the East. It is both the gateway to an adventure and the site
where the first harvest of wine grapes was recorded on February 2, 1659. Today, Cape Town boasts a lively
waterfront, incredible beaches, restaurants and cafes that offer everything from fantastic seafood, through
vegan and international cuisines, to the local tradition of perfectly grilled steaks, all within view of the iconic
Table Mountain.

Taking the cable car up Table Mountain is a breathtaking experience. From the top of this prominent landmark, I explored the protected native Fynbos flora unique to the Western Cape, and enjoyed the spectacular view of the city and surrounding nature below with a freshly poured draft beer in hand from the mountaintop cafe.

My visit to the Constantia wineries was a truly humbling experience. Established in 1679, the 750-hectare farm
developed a reputation for producing highest quality wines that were exported to Europe. Decades later, the
property was divided into three parts, with Groot Constantia and Klein Constantia wineries still in existence
today.

These have changed hands many times over the years, and the original vineyards have long been replanted, but the historic importance of Constantia remains unchallenged when telling the story of the South African wine industry. Vin de Constance, a dessert wine made from Muscat de Frontignan grapes, was a favorite of European royalty and emperors, including Napoleon Bonaparte who insisted on it during his exile on St. Helena.

I was awed by the serenity and beauty of the estates when I was invited to photograph the harvest at Klein Constantia, standing between the rows of vines planted on the ancient decomposed granite soils on the back slopes of the Table Mountain range, while watching the sunrise over False Bay. Klein Constantia specializes in white wines, particularly Sauvignon Blanc, which thrives in its cool maritime climate. I was privileged to a comparative tasting of the various bottlings, as well asrecent vintages of Vin de Constance. This is really one of the world’s great dessert wines!

Just as the Cape Colony expanded eastwards, so did my journey. Weeks were spent exploring the neighboring
wine of origin districts of Stellenbosch and Paarl, the traditional cornerstone areas of the industry. I stayed o wine estates, waking up to the sounds of nature and magnificent views towards the mountains that embrace the towns. I joined winemakers at their homes for family Braai’s (local BBQ’s) and on vineyard
visits. I documented harvests and learned about the unique terroir and diversity of the Cape’s ancient soils, the oldest on the planet.

When I attended the exclusive Cape Wine Masters annual auction, I was tempted to bid on some unique wines. In stark contrast, just days later, I enjoyed the popular Noble Vice wine festival where I reconnected with the wine people and winemakers I befriended during my visits. For two days at the end of October, thirty different wineries each day present their wines to an enthusiastic multiracial and multicultural crowd, something I never experienced growing up during the Apartheid years.

The political upheaval that reformed the country has been particularly embraced in the winelands. South Africa is a leader in the Fairtrade movement, producing two thirds of all wine sold globally under the Fairtrade label. At Bosman, I met a traditional white farming family who went beyond this certification, reaching out to their workers, and inviting them to share in the equity of the estate through the Adama Foundation trust.

No visit to the Cape is complete with exploring the unique range of culinary experiences the Cape has to offer,
from Fish & Chips stalls, through traditional steakhouses, to gourmet chef restaurants. At Babylonstoren
Winery, Babel restaurants serves steak on bespoke plates, at Cape Town’s Pot Luck club I dined at the bar
watching the chef’s turn food into works of art, and at La Colombe in Constantia, a four-hour multi-course meal with wine pairing excited my senses and my palate.

South Africa’s wine-making community goes well beyond the limits of history and tradition, and in recent
decades has expanded to new and exciting areas. The Hemel-en-Aarde valley, a cold maritime climate area
known for producing excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, offers both magnificent views and exciting
experiences. Translated from Afrikaans to “Heaven and Earth”, the Hemel-en-Aarde is indeed one of the most
beautiful wine regions in South Africa.

I have had the pleasure and privelage to both photograph, and dine, at Creation Wines. This relatively young,
modern winery has the distinction of repeatedly being awarded the accolade of one of the World’s Best
Vineyards. The first time I went there, my day’s photography was cut short by rain, and a friend insisted I go to
Creation. They weIcomed me despite my workclothes and boots, and now Creation has become my go-to treat
on every visit, to enjoy the seasonal wine and food pairing lunch, surrounded by green vineyards and dramatic
mountains.

Another favorite area of mine is the Swartland, just a short drive north of Stellenbosch, where the climate
changes with the mountains from cool maritime to largely hot and dry, only tempered by the winds coming in
from the Atlantic Ocean to the west. At the end of the 20th century, a group of visionary winemakers turned this traditionally grain-producing area, with pockets of old vines and unique soils, into a highly-respected region that produces some of the country’s most distinctive and most sought-after wines.

At AA Badenhorst I walked through vineyards planted in 1962, and then joined the staff for lunch on the porch
of the farmhouse. Nadia Sadie took me through the old Chenin Blanc vineyards that surround her and her
husband David’s namesake winery, and Andrea Mullineux proudly took me round her family’s Roundstone Farm where the vineyards were designed by the renowned agronomist Rosa Kruger.

Talking about Chenin Blanc, this is the perfect time to remember that it is South Africa’s most widely planted
grape, with twice as much planted in the Cape as in France. This versatile and hardy variety has adapted well to the subcontinent’s microclimates and varied terroirs, with adventurous winemakers using Steen, as it is locally called, to produce everything from traditional method sparkling wines, to mineral-rich dry whites, and world-class dessert wines.

In stark contrast to the Swartland is the Franschhoek Valley, also just an hour from Stellenbosch. Here the lush, green vineyards share the landscape with centuries old Cape-Dutch farmhouses. With stunning mountains overlooking the valley, winemaking in Franschhoek is true to its Huguenot roots, is characterized by French-style production methods, and restaurants that offer a true fusion between local produce and continental cuisine. On my last visit, I began the day at Colmant, which makes only Champagne-style wines, walked along the main road, popping into the many art galleries that welcome visitors to this unique town, and had an amazing tapas-style meal at Chef’s Warehouse, a contemporary country restaurant.

South Africa is much more than wine and food. It is a country blessed with rugged coastlines and arid deserts,
towering mountains and flowering valleys. It is also renowned for protecting its diverse wildlife. I have enjoyed
waking up to the penguins at the Boulders Beach sanctuary, searched for (and found) whales off the Cape South Coast, and my favorite wildlife experience of all – going on safari game drives, with experienced guides and rangers who led us to herds of elephant, elusive leopards and endangered rhinos.

Now is the time to visit this wonderful country. Allow me to share my experiences with you.

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Alsace: The White Wine Region of France

lior — Wed, 13 Dec 2023 13:15:57 +0000

The tenth largest wine region in France has its own rules. About 90% of the wines produced here are white, according to the best German tradition that is well felt in the Alsace region. The local dialect, Alsatian, is French with significant influences from neighboring Germany and Switzerland. Even the local cuisine includes German elements such as sausages and sauerkraut.

The wines in Alsace usually consist of one main grape variety and, unlike in most of France, here it is customary to indicate the name of the grape variety on the front label of the wine.

The appellation’s great wines are produced from Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat grapes, the Four Noble Varieties of Alsace. The Muscat grapes that grow in the area often produce dry wines, with aromas of honey, and are well worth a try.

Alsace wines are usually not aged in oak barriques. At most, they would be aged in large, old barrels, or foudres, which do not lend aromas of wood that may hide the pure taste of the grapes and the local terroir.

Pinot Noir is the only red grape variety permitted to be grown in the Alsace appellation and is the source of red wines with high acidity and light color. Although its fine red wines are produced in the region, Alsace’s reputation as a white wine region, combined with the prominence of Burgundy’s Pinot Noir, tends to shield these wines from view.

In addition to varietal white wines, fine sparkling wines have been produced in Alsace for over a century using the traditional method, similar to the Champagne region. Here the wines are called Crémant d’Alsace and they make up 22% of the region’s wines. Close to 40 million bottles a year of Crémant, of high quality and at pocket-friendly prices, have made the sparkling wines of Alsace the well-kept secret of bubbly lovers.

The Grand Cru of Alsace

In France, well-known and renowned vineyards are called Lieu-dit, only some of which are included in the Grand Cru lists. Prices for wines from these plots are usually higher than those sourced from unnamed vineyards, but do not come close to the cost of the Grand Crus.

The Alsace vineyards designated Grand Cru are planted in what is regarded as the best terroir. The region boasts 51 Grand Cru vineyards and their Lieux-dits are proudly displayed on the wine label. These vineyards represent just 4% of the area’s output, with strict rules in a French-German approach. The yields are low and only the region’s four noble grape varieties are grown there.

The “short” history of the Grand Cru vineyards in Alsace begins in the middle of the first millennium, when some of the vineyards we know today were already marked and defined. Dagobert, for example, the heir to the throne, gave the vineyard Steinklotz to the Haslach abbey in the year 613. The Vorbourg vineyard supported the Archbishop of Strasbourg in as early as 762, and the Mambourg vineyard is mentioned in AD 783.

Not everyone agrees on the identity of the Grand Cru vineyards though, and there are wineries, such as Hugel & Fils, who have decided to avoid labeling their Grand Cru wines as such.

The Tokaji of Alsace

Those who delve into the history of aged wines may find bottles with the inscription Tokay d’Alsace. Pinot Gris was introduced to the area in the 16th century, and to increase its prestige (and price) Tokaj was added to the name of the wines.

European Union laws have recently brought order to the use of well-known names that have great commercial value. It was decided that the appellation Tokaj would be reserved exclusively for wines coming from the region with that name in Hungary (and to a lesser extent in Croatia). Starting with the 2007 harvest, the local producers abandoned the designation Tokay and currently use only the name of the variety.

On the other side of the scale, there are the simple wines of the Alsace region. Blended from the appellation’s permitted white varieties, these light, refreshing wines with medium acidity and aromas of fruits and flowers are labeled as Edelzwicker or Gentil, depending on the blend.

The most beautiful Wine Region in France

The Alsace wine region, at the foot of the Vosges Mountains, is considered one of the most beautiful in France, with picturesque villages and a combination of French culture with a German influence. The mountain range creates a natural obstacle, which makes the area relatively dry from rains.

Average temperatures reach 20 degrees in summer and 3 degrees in winter, so it is pleasant to travel in the area from May to October. If you are looking for a good opportunity to drink an excellent brandy in a snowy environment, you should come to Alsace in winter and enjoy the excellent Marc d’Alsace.

In addition, the area produces small and fine distillates of fruits such as apples, pears, various berries and dozens of other diverse raw materials; in the best German tradition (did anybody say Schnapps?). One of the best distilleries in the area is Metté, where you will discover 74 (!) various distillates and a lovely hospitality experience.

The Delicacies of Local Cuisine

The local cuisine is one of the best in France and you can find dozens of restaurants in the area that appear in the coveted Michelin restaurant guide, alongside many small and hidden home restaurants that are also worth visiting.

Along with the traditional chocolate and sauerkraut, the locals specialize in smoked meat (mainly pork), foie gras, and a local version of chicken in wine (coq au vin) that is cooked for a long time in Alsatian Riesling.

A famous dish that is not to be missed when you come to the area is the Tarte Flambée, also known by its German name Flammkuchen. Thinly rolled dough is topped with cheese and vegetables and undergoes a short and quick bake of about 2 minutes in a traditional wood oven. Just don’t you dare call it pizza by mistake! In a traditional local restaurant, different types of tarte flambée are served to the center of the table, one after the other, until the diners ask to stop.

Wine, food, views, lovely hospitality, and many others, are the reasons to visit Alsace, now all that remains is to decide when!

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Harvest Tours

lior — Wed, 13 Dec 2023 13:11:25 +0000

As the month of August ends, the harvest begins in many of the wine regions of the Northern Hemisphere. So where should you travel now, or not? Where will visitors be welcomed with open arms during the most beautiful season of the year, and where will they ask you to shed your shoes and join the grape-treading?

When the leaves are green, the grapes are red and the sky is blue, this is the perfect season to visit wineries, taste their wine and witness the growers and winemakers at their peak. However, a winemaker friend told me recently “Between July and November, don’t make plans with me”.

This is the time when the wineries make their annual concentrated effort to bring in the grapes, one without which we would not have wine. Even so, many wineries are still happy to welcome visitors who will join in the celebrations and even roll up their sleeves and experience the harvest in the most physical way possible. In this article, we will discuss where are the best places to witness this very special time of the year.

Bordeaux: The Capital of Wine

About 10,000 wineries fill the region of Bordeaux, which significantly increases the chances of securing a visit during harvest season. Bordeaux is a wine “amusement park” and the harvest period is a peak for tourism in the region. Crowds of tourists, from all over the world, fill the wineries and hotels, so you are definitely welcome to visit and taste.

Although some wineries would prefer to close their doors during the harvest, many of the wineries have a professional hospitality department that knows how to receive visitors even at the height of the season. Do not miss the la Fête des Vendanges, the annual harvest festival that takes place in Saint-Émilion (in 2024, on October 12th & 13th), a colorful and impressive event with a tradition of hundreds of years.

A most colorful event is le Marathon des Châteaux du Médoc that attracts thousands of participants from all over France and the world. In colorful clothes and elaborate costumes, the runners make their way through the vineyards and chateaux of Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe, Médoc and Haut-Médoc over three days, with musical breaks, wine-tastings, an oyster tasting and even steak served at the 39th kilometer.

Bourgogne: The Holy Grail of Wine

For an intimate and thorough visit, Burgundy is better avoided during the harvest. The region has thousands of tiny and exquisite wineries, where the host is usually the winemaker. It will be possible to visit the larger houses during this period, such as Maison Joseph Drouhin, Louis Jadot, Chanson, Bouchard Père et Fils, and even smaller wineries such as Château de Pommard will be able to welcome you. However, we believe the real charm lies in visiting the tiny wineries and meeting the vine-growers and winemakers, which will not be possible during the harvest.

Alsace: The Elegant Northeast of France

You can definitely come to Alsace when the French summer vacation (the famous Vacances) is over. Alsace, located in northeastern France on the border with Germany, enjoys (or suffers, depending on which part of the glass you prefer to focus on) a relatively cold and dry climate that promises a late harvest, even a very late one by European standards. Only towards the month of October will the harvesters start to fire up their engines, and the winegrowers will sharpen their secateurs and go to harvest. The colorful autumn harvest season is the buffer between the pleasant and long summer and the charming Christmas season that follows it.

Portugal: Beauty at the Edge of the Continent

In the Douro Valley, famous for its Port wine, wineries are very happy to receive visitors during this season. Even more so if you are ready to roll up your pants, climb into the Lagar, and stomp the grapes. Lagars are large shallow troughs that contain thousands of liters of must and grapes. To extract the most flavors from the skins without crushing the seeds, it is necessary to mix the fermenting fruit several times a day, and the human foot is the perfect tool for this traditional and unique process. In some wineries you may even find a pianist, whose music will encourage the workers to dance on the grapes at a fast pace.

Rioja: A Spanish Tradition

The annual La Feria de San Mateo festival takes place at the end of September in Logroño, the capital of Rioja. The tradition that began about 900 years ago includes a week-long celebration which includes a colorful and impressive procession that shows the great importance of wine in the region. There are concerts, fireworks and countless parties, and of course, lots of food and wine.

Here in Rioja they will be happy to host visitors in many of the wineries (although not all), even during the harvest. It is definitely recommended and worthwhile to come and visit during the month of September.

Tuscany: Colorful Romance

Countless festivals fill the Tuscan countryside during the harvest season.

The Montecarlo DOC’s wine festival takes place during the first two weeks of September and includes music, art and, of course, lots of wine. Greve in Chianti, located between Florence and Siena, hosts the colorful Expo del Chianti Classico during the first week of September, a celebration that includes tastings from the area’s best wineries that also open their doors to visitors at this time.

In the third week of September, we are invited to celebrate in the village of Panzano in Chianti, and let’s not forget the Festa dell’Uva, the century-old grape festival held in the village of Impruneta which includes a parade of floats, performances, a handicrafts fair and of course, much food and wine.

Elsewhere

There are plenty of other harvest festivals held in southern Spain, Germany, Hungary and many other wine regions. The harvest period is a wonderful time to celebrate wine in its birthplace together with the dedicated people who work to fill the bottles that will be enjoyed throughout the whole year.

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Umbria? Umbria!

lior — Wed, 13 Dec 2023 12:56:15 +0000

Italians lovingly refer to Umbria as The Green Heart of Italy, with its lush vegetation and wide green spaces. It feels as if time has stood still in this land bridge between Rome and Tuscany, in the best sense imaginable. Umbria is romantic and enchanting, enticing visitors from the first moment with its endless mountains and forests, vineyards and fields, all shining in different shades of green.

Every day we meet winegrowers and vintners, with winemaking traditions honored and maintained by their families for hundreds of years. Alongside the wine, we explore in the local culinary delights: a truffle mushroom farm, a family’s olive oil press, and of course, excellent restaurants with mesmerizing views.

Umbria’s central location has denied the region a coastline and therefore does not pride itself on fish or seafood dishes. However, the locals worship the produce that nature has gifted them, a complete and perfect world in and of themselves.

Some of the country’s best olive oils are produced here, along with legumes and seasonal vegetables such as artichokes and asparagus. The star of nature’s bounty is, without doubt, the earthy truffles, beloved by the locals who never miss an opportunity to shave over a warm, soft scrambled egg. Of course, we do not forget the pasta, hand-made in traditional shapes with typical Italian devotion, and served in so many wonderful ways.

Umbria is also known for its livestock, respectfully farmed in the rolling hills, and appreciated by artisanal producers to create incredible, deep-flavored cheeses and a variety of traditional and regional sausages. Their fresh beef, lamb and pork is found in almost every dish, served throughout the day.

The red wines of the region are famous for the indigenous Sagrantino grape, a variety that boasts extremely high tannin levels that are tamed by gentle winemaking and long aging in the bottle. Sagrantino produces wines with an intense inky purple color and an impressive concentration of dark brooding red fruit with an intriguing earthiness and rusticity that makes the drinking experience wild and spicy.

In recent years, with the rising popularity of dry white wines all over the world, Umbria’s famous Orvieto has come to the fore, blended mostly from the Trebbiano and Grechetto grapes, grown on both sides of the Paglia River as is flows through the town that gives the wine its name.

Landing in Rome and just an hour and a half drive away, we officially started our Umbrian adventure on the right foot with a winery visit, naturally.

A magical winery awaited us, perched on a hill overlooking a spectacular and green valley with the Orvieto peeping in the background. At the rural family-run estate, the aromas coming from the kitchen of our lunch being prepared welcomed us. Francesco, the owner, proudly showed us around the winery and led us down to his impressive and beautiful barrel cellar.

We held the wine tasting on the outdoor terrace with its perfect view, each wine paired with a specific dish to highlight its features and enhance the experience. I will always fondly recall the taste of the truffle soufflé that remains imprinted in my senses.

Moving on, we made our way to Montefalco, the picturesque town that would be our home to us for the next several days. Montefalco is considered one of the most beautiful towns in Italy, and is known as the Terrace of Umbria thanks to the breathtaking panoramic view that surrounds it.

Most of the businesses, restaurants and bars are conveniently located around the town’s central square in a scene that reminded us of an old romantic film. This is also where here our excellent and luxurious hotel was located, and at a neighboring restaurant, we ended our first day with an intimate dinner, accompanied by a variety of local wines.

We started the second day in the most impressive way with a visit to the nearby Paolo Bea winery, one of the most important, valued and famous local producers in the region. Giampiero, Paolo’s son, is the winemaker and winery manager. An architect by profession, he applied his philosophy of life to the design of the winery, and the result is particularly impressive: it looks like it came out of an international design magazine. Theirs are wines of the highest quality, and sought after all over the world. The tasting experience is hard to describe in words, I will just say that every true wine lover will be thrilled.

Without noticing, it was time for Pranzo, for lunch, and nothing prepared us for the experience that was to come. Alice, an Italian mama from the movies, hosted us at her home for a cooking and baking workshop with unending energy, style and warmth. Our group quickly divided between several stations: panzanella salad, tomato bruschetta, pasta ragu and even a plum jam tart baking stand. Alice moved from station to station, teaching, sampling and of course pouring wine, because how can you cook without drinking something?

After we finished all of her chores, we sat at a communal table in the courtyard and had delicious food we had ourselves prepared, eating to our heart’s content under the pleasant Umbrian sun. Most definitely an unforgettable experience.

After a short rest at the hotel, we met to celebrate one of the most beautiful gastronomic cultures in Italy – the Aperitivo. Every day, starting at 17:00, immediately after work, people throughout Italy meet in bars and cafes to enjoy an Aperol spritz, a Negroni cocktail or a glass of wine alongside some bruschetta, Cheeses and snacks. We celebrated our Aperitivo in a magical and romantic wine bar located near the best observation point in town. One might call it “Negroni with a view”.

Just a two-minute walk away we were treated to a perfect dinner at an esteemed and famous restaurant in town. Our third morning together began with a hunt, searching for truffles, the so-called Queen of the Forest.

At an impressive truffle farm with an iconic view, we set out with a certified truffle hunter and his wonderful dog Brichiola to search for the elusive fungi. They led us between the trees and bushes, and from time to time Brichiola would discover a perfect truffle, running back to us with it held gently in her mouth. The aroma of a fresh truffle is so impressive and addictive, as is the feeling you get when you hold one in the palm of your hand! Returning with our finds, we sat on a panoramic balcony and got to enjoy bruschetta with truffle spread alongside local sparkling wines. Not a bad start to the day, I would say.

A fascinating winery, hidden in a small valley and surrounded by mountains a short drive from Montefalco, was waiting for us. Paolo, the owner and winemaker hosted us together with Valentina, the visitors’ center manager, for a wine tasting and lunch. Their warm and familial hospitality, the quality of the wines and the food moved us, and without noticing, we spent almost three perfect and unforgettable hours there, at the end of which the whole group left with boxes of wine to bring back home. Tonight’s dinner was so memorable it is worthy of a place in the Hall of Fame of travel experiences.

In a modest farmhouse on the outskirts of Montefalco, with an adjoining vineyard and a stunning view, we met Giorgio Brunozzi. This impressive young man gave us a wonderful evening that started with a toast in the vineyard in front of the sunset, continued with a vineyard safari in his open jeep and ended with a lengthy dinner that he and his best friend cooked for us, along with a tasting his excellent wines. It was a Friday night and the kept wine flowing, and with the homemade local food, invigorated our senses. It was an exemplary intimate event that we will remember forever.

We woke up the next morning, slightly hungover, a reminder of last night’s experience. A good breakfast, a few cups of espresso and we were ready to go.

The town of Assisi is famous in the Christian world as the second holiest place in Italy, after the Vatican, thanks to the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, the founder of the Franciscan order. Assisi is romantic, fascinating and bewitching, and looks as if it was especially built as a set for a film from the Middle Ages, and rightly so. There we met Maura, a knowledgeable local guide who took us to all the fascinating hidden corners of the town and inside the famous basilica. From there we continued to visit another magical and scenic place, to an olive oil estate on a large hill, with two impressive villas, a wide lawn and an unbelievable panoramic view from which even see neighboring Tuscany.

The impressive and successful farm and oil press is managed by three charming and hospitable sisters and their brother, all of whom who never seemed to stop smiling, laughing and having fun with our group. Following a tour of the production hall, we had an olive oil tasting with an impressive lunch and lots of wine, as usual.

We spent the last day of our trip in nature with a visit to the ancient Marmore Falls, followed by some free time in the magical town that was our home for the week, where we took advantage of the beautiful weather with (how else?) an early Aperitivo of generous drinks and exciting food.
On the way to the airport, just before we said goodbye, we all knew – this is not the last time we will visit this region.

True, maybe Umbria is still not the first destination that comes to mind when you think of Italy, but that’s about to change soon, trust us. There is something special about the combination of an authentic area, not too frequented by tourists, with a simple and pleasant local populace, green spaces, magical towns, fascinating cuisine and fine wines that will make anyone fall in love with it.

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