France is the cradle of the global wine industry – everyone knows that.
Within France, the name Bordeaux is probably the one most recognized by the general public. Legendary château estates, vineyards stretching to the horizon, and a unique atmosphere you really have to be there to feel. That energy, as I sense it, is a mix of immense respect and pride for the winemaking tradition,
big money and aristocracy – both past and present – that play a central role in the Bordeaux essence, and finally, the savoir-faire, the winemaking and terroir-based knowledge that has accumulated through hundreds of vintages.
In this article, I’ll recount an unforgettable experience, one that placed me, in many ways, at the very center – the beating heart – of that energy. An energy made up of wealth, aristocracy, tradition, rare wine, one château, and above all – people.
You can’t begin without a bit of history. The story starts heating up as early as the 16th century. Over the next two hundred years, Château Margaux passes through inheritance, expands and contracts, and is ruled by the power families of the region – the same ones who control Château Haut-Brion, Château Latour, and other estates. After the revolution dies down, the niece of the owner who lost his head to the guillotine buys back the estate and, in that same year, marries Hector de Brane – owner of Brane-Mouton, the future Château Mouton Rothschild…
And so it continues – you get the idea. A small circle of noble families intermarrying and passing down these estates. Already back then, their names were renowned far and wide for producing exceptional quality wines.
The “modern” château and the nearby buildings were completed in 1816 by a young but talented architect named Louis Combes, in a neoclassical style. The estate spans over 260 hectares (~642 acres).
By 1977, after many years of poor vintages (with the exception of the legendary 1959 and also 1953), the château was struggling – until one André Mentzelopoulos, originally Greek, stepped in and took matters into his own hands. He restored the vineyards, renovated the estate, dug out a massive cellar beneath the winery buildings, and in that same year, the château was added to France’s official list of historic monuments. By the way, 1978 turned out to be a decent vintage – and whispers of Château Margaux’s comeback began.
In 2003, André’s daughter, Corinne Mentzelopoulos, purchased all the remaining shares and became the sole owner of Château Margaux. That’s where our story begins.
Decades later, she decided to initiate a complete renovation of the winery and hired the British mega-architect Norman Foster (of Reichstag Building, Wembley Stadium fame). In 2015, when renovations were complete, an event was held to celebrate “200 years of architecture in the service of great wine.”
Don’t ask me how, but I found myself holding an invitation.
I stepped out of the hotel room dressed in my finest attire, where a brand-new, shiny black Mercedes van was waiting to collect me and a few other hotel guests. The driver wore black leather gloves and a cap – we already felt like we were in a British movie.
Upon arriving at the château, we drove past the main building and into the parking lot. There, an assortment of cars stood that could put a major European auto show to shame. Near the lot was a small field with two gleaming helicopters – many guests had arrived in style. Every detail was immaculate. Ushers everywhere. No room for error. Everything silently told you: Tonight will be a perfect and precise experience.
We first arrived at the new grape reception building, where our guides were waiting to take us on a tour of the renovated winery. Everything was excessively spotless – but it felt like it was always that way.
After walking through the newly dug cellar and an impressively large underground library of wines, we ascended a spiral staircase that led to a path connecting to the main château building. Even the choreography of the visit was perfect.
There, a professional photography crew was stationed to take portraits of guests in front of the château. It didn’t matter how distinguished the guest – and I estimate the combined net worth of the 500 attendees could match a small country’s GDP – everyone wanted, like little kids, a photo in front of that magnificent building. After your photo, you received a beautifully designed metal card. The photos would be waiting at the end of the evening.
We entered a side building, greeted by two sommeliers. One was pouring from a double magnum bottle of Krug Grand Cuvée Champagne, while the other held your glass. A bottle like that takes two hands to pour…
From there, we returned to the main building, passed through the château, and emerged into its rear courtyard. In front of us stood a vast event hall, specially built for the occasion, with decorated walls, drapes, chandeliers – stunning. Flower arrangements adorned every corner. And yes – the Champagne kept flowing.
We sat down and the evening began. After the speeches – including one from Madame Mentzelopoulos, full of emotion and, believe it or not, humility – the feast began. And of course: the wine. Oh, the wine.
We started with the white wine of Château Margaux – Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux 2012 – served in magnum bottles. This is the estate’s white wine, made in small quantities from Sauvignon Blanc and barrel-aged. It was superb.
Then came the real ceremony. As the next course was served, the lights dimmed, the music fell silent – and suddenly, trumpets blared while about twenty sommeliers in special aprons emerged from the château, carrying wooden crates with the red wine. It may sound cliché, but in that moment, it was breathtaking.
The first red served was Château Margaux 1996 – younger, less complex, but utterly perfect. Deep and powerful – I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a 20-year-old wine so strong and in its prime.
Next came the star – served with a bone-in lamb dish – Château Margaux 1985. A wine experience. Bold, but in peak condition. Everything that needed to soften had done so – the wine drank like silk. I kept sipping, almost forgetting I was at an event.
For dessert: Château Climens Sauternes 1986. Because how could you not?
After the astonishing dinner – and many glasses of wine – the dancing began. I won’t bore you with the details, but let’s just say the Champagne returned, desserts and fine liquors were flowing, and somehow, I found myself dancing at 3 AM in the back courtyard of Château Margaux, among a crowd of tipsy, joyous people – a vivid reminder that despite everything experienced and tasted that evening, at the end of the day, we are all still mortals who love wine, joy, and life.
There’s no doubt this was a remarkable and extraordinary experience. But above all the polish, the beauty at every turn, the impeccable service and the extraordinary wine – what stood out most was the immense pride in their rich tradition, the sense that every tiny detail eventually finds its way into the bottle.
And that really, there’s no other way to justify the phrase:
Premier Grand Cru Classé.
