Sicily – An Offer You Can’t Refuse

Evyatar Baram

Welcome to Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean and one of the most talked-about wine regions in Italy over the past two decades. While Sicily is anything but a “new” wine region—archaeological evidence of winemaking here dates back to 4000 BCE—it has undergone a remarkable renaissance, particularly in the volcanic soils of Mount Etna, where some of Italy’s most exciting wines are being produced today.

Sicily is a world of its own. It has its own history, cuisine, climate, and grape varieties—shaped by a long and layered past of invasions and trade. From the Greeks and Romans to the Arabs and Normans, countless empires left their mark, bringing with them spices, ingredients, and agricultural techniques that still define the island’s character. Take Pasta con le Sarde for example—an iconic Sicilian dish combining sardines, saffron, fennel, and raisins, an unusual blend for Italian cuisine, and a perfect reflection of Sicily’s multicultural heritage.

The island’s climate is ideal for agriculture. It’s dry and sunny for much of the year, which makes it especially favorable for organic grape growing. In fact, many vineyards in Sicily are organic simply by default. Ironically, this same ideal climate nearly destroyed Sicilian winemaking in the late 20th century, when government subsidies encouraged mass production over quality. Ancient low-yielding vines were uprooted to make way for higher-yield, lower-quality grapes meant for bulk wine. The result was a flood of forgettable wines, causing consumers to lose trust in Sicilian labels.

But then came Etna. Around the early 2000s, a new generation of producers began to rediscover the island’s unique terroirs. Old vines were reclaimed. Indigenous grape varieties were celebrated. And Etna, with its dramatic slopes and black volcanic soil, took center stage.

Wine Regions to Know

Etna DOC
Etna is arguably the most exciting wine region in Sicily today, and perhaps all of Italy. Located on the slopes of Europe’s most active volcano, vineyards here are planted at elevations between 600 to 1000 meters, where dramatic day-night temperature swings and mineral-rich soils give rise to wines with intensity and precision. Etna producers have embraced a terroir-driven approach, often bottling wines from individual vineyard parcels (contrade) in a style reminiscent of Burgundy. The reds are fragrant, earthy, and full of personality. The whites are tense, salty, and age-worthy. Any serious wine list today likely includes an Etna bottling or two.

Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG
The only DOCG in Sicily, Cerasuolo di Vittoria comes from the island’s southeast corner. Its signature red wines combine Nero d’Avola and Frappato, offering a contrast to the high-altitude style of Etna. The wines are softer, warmer, and more generous, with cherry fruit, spice, and a plush mouthfeel. The Classico designation indicates grapes from the traditional growing zone and longer aging, resulting in wines with more complexity and aging potential.

Marsala DOC
Marsala is both a historic port town and a fortified wine style, made mostly from white grapes like Grillo, Inzolia, and Catarratto. Though Marsala’s reputation suffered during the 20th century, high-quality examples are once again gaining recognition. The wines can range from dry to sweet and are often aged in solera systems similar to those used in Jerez. Dry Marsala can pair beautifully with sharp cheeses or be served before a meal, while sweeter styles are classic companions for desserts like tiramisu or zabaglione.

Five Sicilian Wines to Discover

Here are five bottles that beautifully showcase the diversity and character of Sicilian wine. Seek them out from trusted retailers or specialty shops:

  1. Etna Rosso, Tenuta delle Terre Nere
    A benchmark producer on Etna. This red, made from Nerello Mascalese, is aromatic and savory, with notes of sour cherry, wild herbs, and a distinct volcanic minerality. A must-try for Pinot Noir lovers curious about Sicily.

  2. Etna Bianco, Terra Costantino
    From organically farmed vineyards on the southeastern slope of Etna, this white blend offers pear, citrus, and even a touch of tropical fruit. It’s rich yet precise—a vibrant expression of Carricante with excellent value.

  3. Nero d’Avola “Plumbago”, Planeta
    Planeta helped revitalize quality winemaking in Sicily. This single-varietal Nero d’Avola comes from the Menfi region and shows ripe black fruit, hints of spice, and velvety texture. Generous and polished, yet unmistakably Sicilian.

  4. Gaio Gaio Vino Rosso, Calcabrina
    A natural wine from a family-run estate that’s been farming organically for four generations. Made from multiple vintages, this funky, earthy red is for adventurous drinkers who enjoy wild flavors and minimal intervention.

  5. “Magma”, Frank Cornelissen
    Perhaps Sicily’s most radical producer, Cornelissen lets nature do the work, refusing to intervene in the vineyard or cellar. Magma, his flagship wine, is an uncompromising expression of Etna’s high-altitude terroir. Not for everyone, but unforgettable once you taste it.

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